Wool and linen: properties, choosing and care – FAQ
Answers to the most common questions about wool and linen fabrics:
how to choose the weight and finish, how much fabric to buy, whether wool is itchy and how to care for wool and linen .
The person behind Wooltrade.cz, an online shop specialising in wool and linen fabrics for historical reenactment, LARP and everyday wear, is its owner, Jan Pilný. If you haven’t found the answer to your question here, please don’t hesitate to contact us.
Contents
Updated: October 2026
How much fabric to buy
How much fabric do I need for each garment?
Approximate yardage for an average-sized adult. Our wool fabrics are mostly 150 cm wide, linen 140–150 cm.
| Garment | At 150 cm width | At 140 cm width | Recommended fabric |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shirt, long-sleeved undertunic | 2–2.5 m | 2.5–3 m | linen, light wool |
| Knee-length overtunic, caftan | 2.5–3 m | 3–3.5 m | wool up to 400 g/m² |
| Doublet, short coat | 2–2.5 m | 2.5–3 m | wool 300–450 g/m², linen twill |
| Jacket | 1.8–2.2 m | 2–2.5 m | wool 300–450 g/m² |
| Trousers | 1.2–1.5 m | 1.3–1.6 m | wool, heavier linen |
| Straight or A-line skirt | 1–1.5 m | 1.2–1.6 m | wool, linen |
| Circle skirt | 2.5–3 m | 3–3.5 m | lighter wool, linen |
| Floor-length dress or underdress | 3–4 m | 3.5–4.5 m | linen, light wool |
| Half-circle cloak (length 110–140 cm) | 2.5–3 m | 3–3.5 m | wool over 400 g/m², broadcloth |
| Full-circle cloak | 4–6 m | 4.5–5.5 m | wool over 400 g/m², broadcloth |
| Hood with shoulder cape | 0.7–1 m | 0.8–1 m | wool, broadcloth |
| Cloak lining | same as the cloak | same as the cloak | linen, light wool |
The exact amount depends on the pattern and size.
How much extra fabric should I add for shrinkage?
For wool fabrics, which shrink little (if washed according to the instructions), adding 5% is enough. For linen, add the percentage given under Shrinkage in the fabric details. For prewashed linen this is usually 1–5%, for linen that has not been prewashed up to 10%.
How do I adjust the amount for a different fabric width?
Pattern pieces fit side by side less easily on narrower fabric. At 140 cm instead of 150 cm, allow roughly 10–20% more, and more for cloaks and wide skirts. Wider fabrics, such as our 220 cm linen, suit large circular patterns.
Can I buy an exact length?
Yes. We sell fabrics from 0.5 m in 10 cm steps, so you buy exactly as much as you need.
Historical costumes
Are your fabrics suitable for historical costumes and reenactment?
Yes. People have worn wool and linen for thousands of years, and most of our fabrics can be used for historical costumes. They are also well suited to LARP and a modern, sustainable wardrobe.
Which fabrics were worn in each period?
| Period | Typical fabrics |
|---|---|
| Bronze and Iron Age, Celts | wool twills, tabbies, herringbones, linen |
| Early Middle Ages, Vikings, Slavs | wool twill, tabby, diamond twill, herringbone, linen tabby for undergarments |
| High and Late Middle Ages | fulled broadcloth, finer wool tabbies, linen |
| Early modern period, 18th–19th century uniforms | dense heavyweight broadcloths, linen |
Why wear linen under wool?
Linen is comfortable on the skin and easy to wash, which is why it was historically worn as the base layer. It protects the wool outer garment from sweat and prevents itching.
Ordering and samples
How do you sell fabrics?
From 0.5 m in 10 cm steps. The price is per running metre in the full width stated for the fabric. We cut the ordered length as one continuous piece.
Can I feel the fabrics first?
Yes, order one of our swatch books. It is worth it if you are unsure about itchiness, the exact shade or the thickness of a fabric. With a swatch book you also get a discount on your next purchase, so its price comes back to you.
How quickly do you ship?
In-stock items are dispatched within 24 hours of receiving and paying for the order. Shipping starts at €3.
Do I get anything extra with my order?
Yes, with orders over €100 you can choose a linen sewing thread for free.
Choosing wool fabric
Which weight of wool fabric should I choose?
It depends on how warm and sturdy the garment should be. For every fabric we state the weight in g/m² and a descriptive label.
| Weight | Label on the fabric | Feel | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| up to 300 g/m² | light | drapey, summer to year-round | tunics, dresses, shirts, skirts, hoods, cloak linings |
| 300–400 g/m² | medium | sturdy, year-round | tunics, hoods, doublets, dresses, trousers, jackets, skirts, lighter cloaks |
| over 400 g/m² | heavy | dense, for winter | cloaks, coats, doublets, uniforms, winter trousers, throws |
The higher the weight, the warmer the fabric and the better it holds its shape, but the less easily it gathers.
What are the different wool fabric finishes suitable for?
| Finish and weave | Usual weight | Properties | Suitable for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tabby / plain weave (unfulled) | 230–400 g/m² | flat, firm, edges fray | shirts, tunics, dresses, scarves |
| Twill, diamond twill, herringbone (unfulled) | 280–400 g/m² | drapes well, weave visible, edges fray | tunics, dresses, skirts, trousers, hoods |
| Partly fulled twill | 400–450 g/m² | dense, medium stiffness, weave slightly visible | cloaks, doublets, uniforms, winter trousers |
| Broadcloth (fulled) | 350–520 g/m² | weave hidden, windproof, edges do not fray | cloaks, coats, uniforms, hoods, garments with raw edges |
What is the difference between tabby, twill, diamond twill, herringbone and broadcloth?
- Tabby (plain weave) – threads cross alternately over and under one another. The simplest weave; the fabric stretches little.
- Twill – forms diagonal lines on the surface. It drapes better than tabby and is more durable.
- Diamond twill – a twill whose diagonals break into diamond shapes.
- Herringbone – a twill whose diagonals regularly reverse into a V pattern.
- Broadcloth – fabric fulled (felted) after weaving, so the weave is not visible.
What does fulled or partly fulled fabric mean?
Fulling is controlled felting of the fabric using moisture, heat and pressure. Fulled fabric (broadcloth) is denser, warm and windproof, and its edges do not fray. On partly fulled fabric the weave is still visible.
What does melange mean?
The fabric is woven from yarn blended from fibres of several colours, giving it a subtly flecked look. Small marks and wear show less.
Itchiness and properties of wool
Is wool itchy?
It depends on the fibre diameter, which we state for every fabric in microns (µm). The lower the number, the softer the fabric feels on the skin.
| Fibre fineness | Label on the fabric | Feel on the skin | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|---|
| up to 22 µm | fine | not itchy | can be worn next to the skin |
| 23–26 µm | soft to the touch | usually not itchy | next to the skin, with caution for sensitive skin |
| 27–30 µm | slightly scratchy | sensitive skin will notice it | outer garments; line trousers and dresses with linen |
| over 30 µm | scratchy | noticeably scratchy | cloaks, throws, accessories |
How can I stop wool from itching?
The most common solution is a linen layer under the wool: a linen shirt under a tunic or doublet, or trousers and dresses lined with linen. Itchiness also decreases slightly after the first wash in wool detergent.
Does wool keep you warm when wet?
Yes. Wool stays warm when damp and wicks moisture away from the body, so it can be worn outdoors in all weather. It can absorb up to roughly a third of its weight in moisture without feeling wet.
Is wool waterproof?
Not completely, but it is naturally water-repellent thanks to the lanolin in the fibre. Dense fulled broadcloths resist rain and wind best.
Why doesn't wool need frequent washing?
Wool naturally resists odours and dirt and has antibacterial properties. Airing the garment and brushing off dirt is usually enough.
Is wool suitable for summer?
Yes, light wool tabbies and twills up to 300 g/m² are breathable and wick sweat. On hot days, however, linen is more comfortable.
What are the drawbacks of wool?
- Sensitivity to heat and friction – hot water, sudden temperature changes and wringing cause felting and shrinkage.
- Moths – wool left in a wardrobe for a long time can be attacked (for protection see Sewing and wool care).
- Higher price – 100% wool costs more than cotton or polyester but lasts much longer.
Is wool eco-friendly?
Yes. Wool is a renewable and biodegradable material, and thanks to its long life garments do not need replacing often.
Sewing and wool care
Should I wash wool fabric before sewing?
Yes. Wash or steam it the same way you will treat the finished garment. Any shrinkage then happens before cutting.
What should I sew wool with?
| Fabric weight | Machine needle | Thread |
|---|---|---|
| up to 300 g/m² | 70–80 | finer linen thread |
| 300–400 g/m² | 80–90 | medium linen thread |
| over 400 g/m² | 90–100 | heavier linen thread |
For hand-sewing historical costumes we recommend our linen threads.
Does wool fabric fray?
Unfulled tabbies and twills do, so the edges need finishing (overlocking or hemming). Fulled broadcloth does not fray and the edge can be left raw.
Can wool fabric be dyed?
Yes, with both natural and synthetic dyes. Undyed and light fabrics dye best; suitable ones are marked “For dyeing” in the colour filter. Avoid sudden temperature changes while dyeing, or the fabric will felt.
How should I wash wool?
By hand in lukewarm water or in the washing machine on the wool programme, at 30 °C maximum and a low spin speed. Use wool detergent, not regular washing powder or fabric softener.
How should I dry wool?
Flat. Gently press out the water (do not wring), roll the fabric in a towel and then lay it on a flat surface. Do not tumble dry or dry in direct sunlight, and do not hang a wet garment on a hanger.
How should I iron wool?
On the wool setting, ideally with steam and through a thin cotton or linen cloth to avoid shiny marks. Creases often disappear with steaming alone.
How do I remove a stain from wool?
Quickly and gently: dab the stain with a damp cloth and a little wool detergent, do not rub. Sprinkle a greasy stain with baking soda, leave it to work and brush it off.
How should I store wool and protect it from moths?
Folded in a dry, airy place, and washed before long-term storage. Occasional airing and lavender, cedarwood, rosemary or orange peel help against moths. Heavier garments stretch on hangers.
Choosing linen fabric
Which weight of linen should I choose?
| Weight | Properties | Suitable for |
|---|---|---|
| 145–190 g/m² | fine, light, often semi-sheer | shirts, blouses, undergarments, light dresses, veils |
| 220–290 g/m² | medium-weight tabby, the most versatile | shirts, tunics, dresses, trousers, bed linen, tablecloths, curtains |
| 300–410 g/m² | heavier tabby, twill, herringbone | trousers, doublets, jackets, quilted gambesons, upholstery, bags |
What do prewashed, preshrunk and stiffened linen mean?
- Prewashed / partly preshrunk – the linen has already been washed, is softer and shrinks only a little further (usually 1–5%).
- Stiffened, unwashed – the linen is firm and smooth but shrinks more in the first wash. Wash it before sewing.
- Oatmeal – natural undyed linen with a subtly flecked look.
What is linen-cotton (half-linen)?
A blend of 50% linen and 50% cotton. It is softer, creases less and is more affordable, while looking like linen.
Linen properties and care
How much does linen shrink?
We state the exact value for every fabric under Shrinkage. Prewashed linen usually shrinks by 1–5%, unwashed linen by up to 10%. Always wash linen before sewing the same way you will wash the finished item.
Is linen itchy?
No. Coarser linen may feel stiff at first but softens with washing and wear. It suits sensitive skin too, which is why it is worn as a base layer under wool.
Why does linen crease?
Linen fibre is not elastic, so creasing is a natural property, not a defect. Heavier linens, twills and linen-cotton blends crease less.
Is linen good for summer?
Yes. Linen is breathable, wicks moisture and dries quickly, so it feels cool in hot weather.
What is the difference between linen and cotton?
Linen is stronger and more durable, wicks moisture better and dries faster. It does, however, crease more and costs more.
How should I wash linen?
Coloured linen at 30–40 °C, white or natural linen at up to 60 °C, with a mild detergent. Do not overload the machine so the linen does not crease unnecessarily.
How should I dry and iron linen?
Air-dry, ideally laid out; in a tumble dryer use only a low temperature, otherwise it may shrink. Iron on a high setting, ideally while still slightly damp. For a natural look you can leave it slightly creased.
How should I store linen?
In a dry place to prevent mildew. It can be folded or hung on a hanger.
Missing some information or have a question? Write to us.
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